Türkiye · Europe
Moving to Istanbul
Istanbul quick facts
Cost of living in Istanbul
Getting set up in Türkiye
Residence permit (ikamet) & foreigner ID (YKN)
Most Western nationals enter Türkiye visa-free for 90 days in any 180; anything longer requires a residence permit (ikamet izni), applied for online via e-İkamet. The realistic civilian route is the short-term permit (kısa dönem), but the rules tightened sharply: purely touristic applications and renewals are now routinely refused, and Istanbul has CLOSED DISTRICTS (kapalı mahalle) where the foreign-resident share is too high and no new foreigner may register an address. Your lease must sit in an OPEN neighbourhood or the application is refused outright. Once approved you receive a Yabancı Kimlik Numarası (YKN) — an 11-digit ID starting with 99 — which is the master key to a bank account, tax number, SIM card, healthcare and the e-Devlet government portal.
Read the full step-by-step guideDriving & getting around Istanbul
Most expats don't drive in Istanbul — the public-transport network is vast and the traffic is genuinely among the world's worst. One tap-and-go İstanbulkart covers the metro, tram, Metrobüs (BRT), the under-Bosphorus Marmaray rail, city buses, funiculars and the famous cross-continent ferries, so for daily life you rarely need a car. If you do want to drive, you can use your home licence (with a notarized Turkish translation or an International Driving Permit) for up to 6 months. After that — or once you hold a residence permit — you must exchange it for a Turkish licence (sürücü belgesi), and thanks to reciprocity agreements most nationalities do this with no driving test. Türkiye drives on the right.
Read the full step-by-step guideTax number, a bank account & surviving the lira
In Türkiye the order is everything: first get a free Turkish tax number (vergi kimlik numarası), which you can do online with just your passport before you even have residency — no account opens without it. Then you open a bank account in person, typically needing your passport, that tax number, proof of a Turkish address and a Turkish mobile number; since 2025-26 banks tightened KYC/AML and many branches now also want a residence permit (ikamet) or foreigner ID (YKN), though this still varies by bank and even by branch. Garanti BBVA and İş Bankası are the names most often cited as foreigner-friendly. Once in, the bigger money skill is not holding idle lira: with high inflation and the lira sliding, most expats keep savings in USD/EUR (döviz) accounts and only convert to lira what they need to spend.
Read the full step-by-step guideHealthcare: SGK, private insurance & hospitals
In your first year you almost certainly use private health insurance: a compliant policy is mandatory to get (and renew) a residence permit, and basic plans are cheap by Western standards. If you work for a Turkish employer you're enrolled in SGK (public insurance) automatically from day one; otherwise you can only opt into SGK voluntarily after holding a residence permit for one full year. SGK gives near-free access to public hospitals plus SGK-contracted private ones, but public facilities are crowded with real language barriers. Istanbul's private hospitals (Acıbadem, Memorial, American Hospital, Liv, Medical Park) are modern, often JCI-accredited and English-speaking — and the same system makes the city a world-class, low-cost medical-tourism hub for dental, hair transplants, eye and cosmetic surgery.
Read the full step-by-step guideGetting a SIM & mobile data
Local SIMs are cheap and 4.5G is excellent, but the killer issue is the handset rule: a foreign phone's IMEI works on Turkish networks for only ~120 days, then gets permanently blocked unless you pay a steep government registration fee (over 54,000 TL / about US$1,260 in 2026). Land connected with a data-only eSIM (Airalo/Holafly), but buy it BEFORE you fly — BTK has blocked most foreign eSIM apps inside Türkiye since mid-2025. For a real Turkish number, buy a prepaid SIM at an official carrier store with your passport; a tourist welcome pack runs roughly US$30-55 for ~20 GB. Turkcell has the widest, strongest coverage (and the highest prices); Vodafone and Türk Telekom are cheaper. 5G went live nationally in 2026 and is rolling out across Istanbul.
Read the full step-by-step guideTax number (vergi no), residency & income tax
Your vergi kimlik numarası (tax number) is the free, passport-only gateway to banking, property, and utilities in Istanbul — you can get it online in minutes before you even have a residence permit. Once you have a residence permit, your foreigner ID number (YKN) doubles as your tax number. The big line to watch is residency: spend more than ~6 months (183 days) in a calendar year, or hold a legal residence here, and Türkiye taxes your WORLDWIDE income (non-residents are taxed only on Turkish-source income). Employees have tax withheld at source through payroll (stopaj) and usually never file; freelancers and remote workers typically open a sole proprietorship (şahıs şirketi), keep books via an accountant, charge/file VAT, and pay quarterly provisional tax.
Read the full step-by-step guideEach guide has verified costs, timelines, required documents, and the non-obvious gotchas — sourced from official government pages.
Essential Turkish phrases
What to know before you go
Get an İstanbulkart and ride two continents
ImportantOne rechargeable İstanbulkart covers the metro, trams, buses, the Marmaray under-Bosphorus rail and the iconic ferries. The ferry between the European and Asian sides is the city's best-value joy — commute by boat with tea in hand. Buy and top up the card at kiosks and station machines.
Hold hard currency, spend lira
CriticalTurkish lira inflation is high, so prices change fast and furnished flats are often quoted in USD/EUR. Keep savings in dollars/euros and convert as you spend; exchange offices (döviz) give better rates than airports. Many places take cards, but carry some cash for small vendors and tea.
Sort your residence permit (ikamet) — and watch closed districts
CriticalAnything over 90 days needs a residence permit applied for via the e-İkamet system. Critically, many Istanbul districts are CLOSED to new foreigner registration (they hit the foreign-population cap), so your address must be in an open district or the application fails. Get the ikamet right and your foreigner ID + tax number follow.
Respect the earthquake reality when choosing a flat
ImportantIstanbul sits near a major fault and a significant quake is expected. Favour newer or retrofitted buildings (post-2000, built to updated codes), ask about the building's deprem (earthquake) compliance, and know your exits. It's the single most important safety question when renting.
Tea, hospitality and bargaining
Good to knowHospitality is serious here — you'll be offered çay everywhere, and refusing isn't rude but accepting builds rapport. In the Grand Bazaar and markets, haggling is expected and friendly; in shops and supermarkets, prices are fixed. A little Turkish goes a long way.
Plan around traffic and the two sides
ImportantIstanbul traffic is among the world's worst, and crossing between the European and Asian sides at rush hour is painful. Live near where you work or study, lean on the Marmaray and metro for cross-Bosphorus trips, and embrace the ferries — often faster and far nicer than a car or bridge.
Top industries & employers
Technology & startups
Getir, Trendyol, Peak Games, Dream Games, Insider
Türkiye's startup engine — home to several gaming and e-commerce 'unicorns' and a fast-growing tech scene.
Tourism & hospitality
Hotels, airlines, travel, F&B
One of the world's most-visited cities; tourism and hospitality are huge employers.
Finance & fintech
Banks, Papara, fintechs
Türkiye's financial capital, with major banks and a lively fintech sector born of inflation-era innovation.
Textiles & manufacturing
Garment, automotive, white goods
A manufacturing and export powerhouse — textiles, cars and appliances flow to Europe and beyond.
Media, film & creative
TV (dizi), advertising, design
Turkish TV series (dizi) are a global export; Istanbul is the creative and media hub of the region.
Logistics & trade
Shipping, Turkish Airlines, freight
The literal bridge between Europe and Asia — a logistics, aviation and trade crossroads.
Where to go in Istanbul
Hagia Sophia & Sultanahmet
Landmark · Fatih (Old City)
The world-wonder Hagia Sophia faces the Blue Mosque across a park, with Topkapı Palace and the Basilica Cistern nearby.
Local tip: Go at opening to beat crowds and heat; visit the Blue Mosque outside prayer times and dress modestly (scarves provided).
Grand Bazaar & Spice Bazaar
Culture · Fatih
One of the world's oldest covered markets — thousands of shops of carpets, lamps, gold and spices.
Local tip: Haggle with a smile and compare a few stalls; the Spice Bazaar near Eminönü is smaller, tastier and less overwhelming.
Bosphorus ferry & Ortaköy
Nature · The Bosphorus
A public ferry up the strait passes palaces, fortresses and waterfront mansions between two continents.
Local tip: Take the cheap public ferry (İstanbulkart), not a pricey tour boat; stop at Ortaköy for a waterfront kumpir (loaded baked potato).
Galata Tower & Karaköy
Landmark · Beyoğlu
A medieval tower with panoramic views above the hip cafés, galleries and design shops of Karaköy.
Local tip: Skip the tower queue and get the same view with a coffee from a rooftop nearby; wander Karaköy's backstreets for the best brunch.
Kadıköy & Moda
Food · Kadıköy (Asian side)
The buzzing market, meyhane (taverns) and seaside Moda promenade — real, secular, local Istanbul life.
Local tip: Do the Kadıköy food market then walk the Moda coast at sunset; the ferry over from Karaköy is half the fun.
Balat & Fener
Hidden gemCulture · Fatih
Steep lanes of rainbow-coloured houses, antique shops and Greek-Orthodox and Jewish heritage.
Local tip: Come for golden-hour photos and a coffee; it's photogenic but residential, so be respectful around homes.