Where to live in Baku

Renting in Baku runs largely through agents, who typically take around a month's commission, and through Bina.az, the dominant classifieds site. Rents are quoted in manat, which is pegged to the dollar, so the currency question that dogs Tbilisi and Yerevan does not arise here. Expect one month's deposit plus the first month upfront. The single thing that makes Baku different from its neighbours is registration: any foreigner staying more than 15 days must be registered at their place of stay within 15 days of arrival, and the legal duty sits on the host party — meaning your landlord. Some landlords who let informally will not cooperate, and a flat you cannot register at is not usable as a base, however good the price. Settle that question at the viewing, not after the deposit.

1. 1

   Ask about registration before you ask about the rent

   You must be registered at your place of stay within 15 days of arrival if you are staying longer than 15 days, and again within five working days of any move. The obligation legally binds the host party — the landlord — and not every landlord will do it. Ask directly at the viewing whether they will support registration at the address, and treat a refusal as disqualifying. You can file through the State Migration Service e-services yourself, but you need the landlord's cooperation on the address.

2. 2

   Search Bina.az and use an agent for the rest

   Bina.az is the dominant Azerbaijani property portal and where most stock appears; it is in Azerbaijani and Russian and browser translation handles it. Beyond that, agents control a large share of the market, particularly in Sabail and the new-build complexes, and charge roughly a month's commission. For corporate relocations the employer's relocation agent will usually run the whole search — but check whether their inventory is limited to the expensive expatriate stock.

3. 3

   View in person and check wind exposure, heating and water

   Baku's khazri wind is a real housing variable: a north-facing seafront flat is a different proposition in February from a sheltered courtyard one. Check the heating (many older flats rely on gas), the hot water supply, and the state of the windows. In older Old City and Nasimi buildings ask specifically about water pressure on upper floors and whether there is a lift. In new-build, confirm the building is actually finished and occupied rather than half-let.

4. 4

   Negotiate and get a written contract

   The asking price is usually negotiable, especially outside the September peak and for longer terms. Insist on a written lease naming the rent, deposit, term, notice period, utility responsibilities and the inventory. Photograph the condition at handover. A written contract also supports your registration and, later, banking — Azerbaijani institutions run on stamped originals, and an informal arrangement leaves you with nothing to show.

5. 5

   Pay the deposit and set up utilities

   Typical upfront is one month's deposit plus the first month, plus the agent's commission. Utilities — gas, electricity, water, building maintenance — are usually billed on top and can be paid through the m10 wallet once your banking is live. Confirm whether internet is included; in newer complexes it usually is.

6. 6

   Re-register if you move, within five working days

   The registration obligation is address-specific. Moving flat means registering at the new address within five working days. People who register correctly on arrival and then move three months later routinely forget this and discover the problem at exit or at the next permit renewal.